Crewe-Read Photography: London Collection : MEN

As 2014 kicks off another exciting year of fashion, I travelled into the depths of it all

with Stylist/Blogger Lupe Castro www.mscastrorides.com

to see the AW14 Mens Fashion Week collections at LC:M

The Emphasis there is heavily on emerging British fashion talent but also the creative and commercial importance of UK Brands. From the new, up-and-coming designers to the more well-known Saville Row tailors - the visual smorgasbord of colours, textures and patterns continued to surprise and excite the viewers in all areas of the new collections.

Christopher Raeburn was the first show we saw and what a wealth of interesting ideas and concepts.

Primarily Raeburn started out as a designer with a penchant for using old materials in his work.
After graduating from The Royal College of Art, and holding his first exhibition at London's Imperial War Rooms, his de-commissioned parachutes stole the show and his 'RE-MADE' ethos remained. He is still true to his word and continues to find inspiration from old and previously loved pieces to build his new creations.

Raeburns inspirations come from the haunting exhibition of photographer Ragnar Axelsson entitled
'The last days of the Arctic,' where he documents a disappearing world of craft, community and culture.
The pieces are said to "reflect the resourcefulness and stoicism of the men and women captured in Axelsson's images and their endurance to survive the harshest of conditions," which resonate with Raeburns on going interest in protection and preparation.

The Man himself - Christoper Raeburn

From Raeburns collection

The next of my discoveries were the Action Men-esque models at the James Long show.

Styling Brand 'Fudge' laquered their hair, wrapping it then in cling-film and painting it blue.

Long's models transformed into the perfect man figure, showcasing some of the most interesting textures seen in the show. The classic 'Bomber Jacket' was taken and transformed into a modern and very easily wearable piece. Using simple quilting and minimal styling his looks emphasised a futuristic and visually exciting, abstract street-wear collection.

When asked to describe the theme, he referred to it as

'Costume Play' mixed with a "primitive Sci-fi style.'

We love you James Long.

Tiny Tempah is a big fan of James Long
and also a great friend of the British Fashion Council

Behind the scenes: with AOFM PRO

(Pre YMC / Duchamp Shows)

Yin Lee - Head make-up artist AOFM

Dipping into shows throughout the day, the range of styles was constantly changing.
Tailoring made a colourful comeback with Luxury brand Duchamp's interpretations of the modern man's suit.

Crushed velvets and tartans were amongst the ideas displayed at The Royal Academy of Arts, for the interactive Menswear show.

Duchamp, London

Next we were over to YMC
for some starry-eyed surprises splashed with loud block colouring street style.

- "understated classic clothing with a twist" sums up this collection.

Clever.

Kit Neale was next and the show I have to say, I was most looking forward to today.
He definitely did not disappoint.

Neals's colourful, lighthearted and sporty collection was littered with his new season motif of 'RATS,' which were seen on pieces all throughout the show.

Exploring British Life and London Living, Neale's homage to The Elephant and Castle (seen on the sweater below) and its run down district and dated shopping mall, gives inspiration to his collection and brings the repetitive rat theme to life.

His use of luxurious materials makes a fabulous contrast to the gritty London borough and juxtaposes nicely with its bright colours and graphic prints.

KN / Rats in the rubble

Kit Neale (right)

On to the next.....

Tobias England

Shirt Artisans

The final show of the day and running out of steam a little.... this show of expert craftsmanship instantly upped the ante and created a spectacular in The White Space Gallery, Leicester Square.

Greeted with a champagne cocktail and a live portrait session, Tobias England offered us a "unique collection of trends and staples for the contemporary man."

Traditional tailoring techniques and vintage Western inspiration dominated the show.

The next day, and straight back into it all.... and time to check out the next show:

Oliver Spencer's collection was an earthy representation of menswear.

Inspiration drawn from hunting and the military, Spencer's self taught tailoring, bridges the gap

between popular street-wear and traditional tailoring.

His warm hues and statement colours were possibly overshadowed by the star cast and guest appearances from John Bradbury of The Specials whose drum kit graced the middle of the catwalk with its presence, playing throughout the show at one end of the runway while Alex James of Blur (pictured below,) 80's style icon Christos Tolero (Blitz Club promoter - bottom left) Jack Guinness, Gary Kemp (Spandeau Ballet -bottom right) and strutted their stuff around the room.

Dipping into the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN 'Ones to Watch' initiative back at the Hospital Club, designer Alex Mullins without a doubt for me -stole the show.

His debut collection depicts the 'Wild West Rodeo' with each hard wearing and functional piece, made from denims, velvets and sand-washed silks, (to name a few) and reinvented, made into wearable canvasses.

His fascination with romance and adventure of the Wild West, brings his 1974 character to the city and creates an image of a struggling artist trying to make ends meat.

"What would a modern day cowboy, wear in London?"

KTZ....

Pre show:

Eagerly awaiting the show.

Travelling the world throughout the 80's and collecting inspiration from music, culture and symbolism, former CSM graduates Marjan Pejoski and Sasko Bezovski created in-house brand KTZ and established a chain of boutique retail stores - 'Kokon to Zai.

Their brand is heavily influenced by 'indigenous silhouettes' and plays with icons and pattern throughout the collection, creating a dark and gothic vibe and interspersed with headonism through the use and choice of music.

The cultural references throughout were astonishing, from Indian embroided mirrored throws, dyed black to 19th Century realism through symbolism, the references to art, history and science were all there and did nothing but blow the entire audiences minds.

This show was beyond incredible.